Friday, September 11, 2009

Movie of the Week IX

Hands Across the Table (1935)
Writing about Bringing Up Baby put me in mind of another of my favorite 1930s comedies, Hands Across the Table. I discovered Carole Lombard relatively recently. It is always exciting to find a new film or actor, and as soon as I became acquainted, so to speak, with Carole Lombard, I re-arranged my Netflix queue to watch every Lombard film I could find. She is magnificent! One of the rare actresses who is funny and glamorous and gorgeous. It might be that her glamour makes her even funnier since you don't expect her to be such a goof. Indeed, she didn't do much comedy until the 1930s (she started in films at the age of 12 in 1921).
She can smolder like Marlene Dietrich and she looks a little like Grace Kelly, but then she can let go and play screwball and slapstick with the best of them. Loads of fun to watch. She is a little unusual, too, in that she is great as a dizzy heiress as in My Man Godfrey but also excellent as a lower-middle class working woman. She plays the latter in Hands Across the Table. Her male counterpart in the movie is Fred MacMurray. He might be best known for his later work when he played fathers and older characters...the TV show My Three Sons (1960-1972), The Absent Minded Professor (1961), The Happiest Millionaire (1967), etc. But he was also great in dramas and film noir as in Double Indemnity (1944). And I like him very much in his 1930s comedic roles. He was quite a hunk! And he could play and joke and fall down...
MacMurray and Lombard were in four films together: Hands Across The Table, The Princess Comes Across (1936), Swing High, Swing Low (1937), and True Confession (1937). I like Hands Across the Table the most. The Princess Comes Across can't match it for plot, Swing High is sort of a screwball comedy that turns tragic all of the sudden, and True Confession is a little manic.

In many ways, Hands Across The Table is a typical Depression-era romantic comedy. The basic plot was used over and over in the 1930s: A woman is struggling to make ends meet as a manicurist (this film), or dance instructor, or store clerk or secretary. She is worn down with the struggle and is unabashedly honest about trying to marry rich, never mind love, in order to get out of her hum drum existence and live the easy life she has always imagined. Usually there is a little backstory explaining her cynical perspective; she says that her parents married for love but the struggle to survive made the love disappear. She is not going to make the same mistake!
Regi Allen (Carole Lombard) is well positioned to make a financially successful match. She works in a swanky hotel in the lobby salon and her clients are almost all wealthy men. (Now manicures and pedicures are mainly for women, but as this movie shows, it has not always been that way!) The receptionist tries to help Regi in her quest by giving her the appointments with rich, single men. In walks Theodore Drew III (Fred MacMurray).
Regi knows this is her chance. She is so nervous that she keeps botching the manicure, stabbing Drew's cuticles and filing too hard. It is funny but painful, too. He leaves the salon with every finger bandaged. But he still asks Regi to dinner.
They have a marvelous time, until Regi learns that Drew is just as poor as she is. His fortune has somehow disappeared and he is also on the lookout for a rich mate. Regi is furious, but she admits grudgingly that she has the same goal and the same attitude. Drew is engaged to a rich girl and will marry her in about a week. In the meantime, he has nowhere to stay and no money. Regi agrees to help him out until his marriage. In a fairly risque move, Drew moves into Regi's small apartment and they set up housekeeping together. They have a fantastic time living together, too. Regi works all day and Drew stays home to cook and clean. They get to rehearse being married, in a sense. (Hmm quite similar to The More the Merrier! Interesting how these movies get their characters to live together before marriage when that wasn't okay...) To Regi and Drew's surprise and dismay, they like being with each other. But no, they must marry for money!
So Drew is planning to marry his heiress, and Regi has plans for another rich client, Allen Macklyn, played by Ralph Bellamy.
Poor Ralph. He never gets the girl. See His Girl Friday (1940), The Awful Truth (1937), etc. He always plays the steady, slightly boring man who is devoted to his mother, competing with a handsome rascal like Cary Grant or Fred MacMurray. Unfortunately, the women always choose the rascal. To make Bellamy's position even more pitiful, he is confined to a wheelchair in Hands Across the Table. Still, it seems like he might get Regi. He is rich and kind and he is very fond of her. He is ready to propose. And she likes him, too.

But he never really has a chance when compared to the excitement and humor that Drew can provide. Besides, despite Regi's cynicism, love must always triumph!
The plot is simple but well executed and it does have some nice twists, and the actors are terrific. Lombard and MacMurray are wonderful together. This movie has lots of giggles and great dialogue as well as chemistry-filled moments to break up the laughs.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Hrensko and Decin Weekend

Last weekend it was off to the north of the Czech Republic, right on the border with Germany. Which means that menus and signs were in two languages that I don't understand! So I felt doubly isolated. How nice. The area where we went is called "Czech Switzerland" because it looks like Switzerland. Curvy rivers and huge rocks and smallish mountains. Lovely scenery.
We arrived late on Friday at our pension. On Saturday morning we took a boat down the river from the little town of Hrensko to Decin. It was a rainy but pleasant morning. I like being on the water. It always lifts my spirits.
Trains ran continuously right alongside the river, which I thought was awesome. I squealed like a child every time I saw one. Except the children I were with did not squeal since trains are not as cool to them since they see them all the time. We were right on the border; that train is in Germany and the other bank is Czech land.
This area used to be populated mainly by wealthy Germans who built beautiful houses right on the water. But after World War Two the Czech people expelled the Germans in retaliation for the Nazi occupation of their country. A lot of the gorgeous houses, (most are very German looking) are sad ruins now since their owners were kicked out and the money left with them. This area would have been something quite spectacular to see before the war! Large, handsome houses built right into the rock with glorious views of the river.
We took the same boat back to Hrensko. It is an adorable little tourist town with cute hotels and shops. Most of the buildings seemed to date back to the beginning of the 20th century. I know that because they had dates on them. You can't see it in the picture, but this one had "1904" on the front.
The town is sandwiched between rock walls in its own little valley. I didn't feel claustrophobic, but it might be a little close in the winter when there is a lot of snow.
Next to a gorgeous hotel was this not-so-gorgeous-but-perhaps-more-interesting building. I told Honzik it was my house and he thought that was very funny.Here is a house I would like, though. It was tucked back behind a big cliff face. Love the stone, love the shape, love the stairs and the balcony, love how it is slightly set back from the street. Wish I could have taken a tour, but I felt creepy enough to be sneaking back there to take a picture.Next to the house was this funny little statue stand. (The whole town was covered in stalls selling the same exact clothes and shoes.) Jesus is in the middle with Mary, next to a naked Greek lady, some birds, some gnomes, and a few naked Greek men. Awesome.
We hiked a few kilometers into the woods to take another boat ride, this time in a non-motorized ship. It was mossy and green and watery.
The house at the bottom right of the picture is the ticket office. I don't know if the back wall is rock or if they built something against it, but the building sure is pressed into the stone face.

A longer hike and we were back at the pension. There was a country music festival going on in the dining room. I couldn't fall asleep because the American country songs and the Czech versions and the unique Czech songs were so loud. It was sort of great to hear "Leaving on a Jet Plane" sung in Czech with one chorus in English, though.

The next day we drove to Decin, the bigger city. Apparently it is still trying to recover from expelling the Germans. It was more industrial and not quite as adorable as Hrensko, but it had its good points. Here is a view of the river.
This is the prettiest street in town, in my opinion. Up on the cliff there is a white castle.
You can see it better in this picture. We hiked all the way up. But not before letting this train pass. Cool, right?
I was a touch disappointed when we got to the white castle because it is actually just a mediocre restaurant. I was hoping it was a museum or still-lived in palace with a weird dowager duchess or something.
Although the tea and strudel were nothing special, the castle/cafe did offer a nice view of the Decin Castle. I thought it was a monastery and had created an elaborate daydream about the monks copying manuscripts in their silent and massive library, but turns out it was a fort and then a castle and then a garrison for German and Soviet troops in the 20th century. Though it must have been quiet at some point because Chopin was able to concentrate and write his "Valse in A Flat Major" at the castle.
Apparently the water levels can be very extreme in Decin. It can flood and cause bridges to fail and barges to crash into the city, or the water can disappear and cause equally disastrous results. There is a stone in the river that is only visible at very low water levels. It reads, "If you see me, then cry." Poetic, eh?

Next stop was the Decin zoo. It was like a big petting zoo with a few "zoo" animals thrown in. There were horses and goats and squirrels, but also two huge grizzly bears, a lynx, and a leopard. I liked the bears best.
The boys were perhaps most excited about the awesome playground at the zoo. They climbed rope ladders and walked across beams and swung from trees until both of them fell down and got minor scratches. Which you would think were major, life threatening catastrophes by the way they cried and suffered. They were so tired by this point! Here is Lukas, who was out within minutes of getting back in the car.
Another busy weekend!

Monday, September 7, 2009

Visas in Vienna

I was barely back in the Czech Republic when I headed to Austria. It was time to go to the Czech Embassy to get my long term residency visa. (I have almost exhausted my 90 day tourist visa.) Unfortunately, you can't get that visa in the Czech Republic; you have to leave the country and go to a Czech Embassy. It was either Bratislava or Vienna. They chose Vienna. So on Thursday morning at 5am* I was in a van with a driver, a lawyer, and a Czech/German/English speaking woman, all from Eva's company. The woman came along since neither the driver nor the lawyer speak any English. I felt so important with my entourage! Cameron the celebrity. And also sort of unimportant at the same time, since my presence was only required for a few signatures. I didn't even have to speak to the people at the embassy!

After a lovely four and a half hour drive we arrived in Vienna. But crisis! We thought they only required two passport sized photos, when in fact they need three! The embassy pointed the way to a photo studio and my handlers and I jumped back into the van. I tried to understand the German instructions and posed for some pictures. Then it was back to the embassy. They are only open for visa stuff from 8:30 to 10:30 in the morning (sort of a tiny and inconvenient window if you ask me) so we had to rush back to make it before they closed for the day. Whew! We made it.

The lawyer said something to the woman, which she translated as "We are going to see the castle." "Okay," I said. I like castles and I don't think they were asking me, anyway.

Turns out Schonbrunn Palace was two blocks away from the embassy! I didn't have my camera since I didn't know we would be visiting Empress Maria Theresa's modest little pile. But don't cry! My family and I visited two years ago so here are some pictures from 2007. The palace hasn't really changed since then.

The odd busty sphinx ladies that guard the entrance.
The front.
One day I will take a ride in a horse drawn carriage. One day...

The back. The yellow and paler yellow are nice, I suppose, but I think it would look much prettier in shades of green or blue or even white. Up close it is sort of mustardy. Not as pristinely elegant as other palaces.
This is the Glorietta. Sort of a summer palace that overlooks the main 1000 room monstrosity from up on a hill. There is a small lake behind the Glorietta. The lawyer was determined to walk all the way up to the Glorietta so that we could look back on the whole city. Never mind that neither I nor the woman were dressed for hiking. It was really hot, too. But it wasn't a discussion so we climbed up the hill. Nice view of Vienna, but we only looked at it for a minute or two since none of us knew what we were looking at and it was difficult to remark upon anything we saw anyway because of the language barrier.
The way back to Nove Straseci took about five hours. Agh. The trip was made more interesting by the radio. The music selection was a combination of 1980s and 1990s American pop and Czech music with some other European selections thrown in. I was shocked to learn that the song from the movie Love, Actually, (the one where they change the word love to Christmas) is a real song! I thought they made it up for the movie. But I learned the truth when it played (twice) on the way back. I have heard a lot of ABBA, as well as Czech versions of American songs. For instance, the "You're the One That I Want" song from Grease plays a lot but the lyrics are in Czech.

And the best part is...I get to go back this Thursday! Apparently they don't mail visas so the driver and I will head back to Austria at 4:30am to pick up my papers. It will be a long, silent drive. About ten hours in the car for a five minute appointment. Not looking forward to it.

*Favorite moment: I was chatting with sister Sally on gchat and said goodbye, adding that I needed to go to bed early since I had to get up at 4am the next day to go to Vienna. Her response? "Yeah, me, too."

Hello, Sally! Hello, Abigail!

Wasting time at a gas station...
For a small fee I can arrange for them to say "Hello!" to you, too! Other possible phrases include "Where is ___?" "____ is silly!" and "____ is sleeping." This is a limited time offer. Shipping and handling not included.

Movie of the Week VIII

Bringing Up Baby (1938)

I have waited as long as I can. This is possibly my very favorite movie. As soon as I say that I think of others that I love and I realize it is sort of impossible to claim an absolute favorite, but before I get totally distracted—if people ask me what my favorite movie is I say Bringing Up Baby. Okay.

Bringing Up Baby is not a light comedy about bringing up a human child, as in Three Men and a Baby, Baby Boom, or Look Who's Talking. (Spoiler: the Baby in the title is actually a leopard). No, this movie is a screwball comedy starring the incomparables of the incomparables: Katharine Hepburn and Cary Grant. They are at their 1930s ridiculous comedy bests in this film. Although now the movie is always on the top 100 movie lists, it was a huge box office flop when it was released. I was shocked when I heard that since it is such a fun, hilarious, clever movie starring such magnificent and popular actors. So why did it flop? Not sure, actually. Katharine Hepburn was having a tough time drawing audiences and the movie is a little silly...but there are sillier ones. I don’t really know why it wasn’t a hit in 1938. I would have gone to see it over and over if I had been alive then.

Hepburn and Grant starred in four films together: Sylvia Scarlett (1935), Bringing Up Baby (1938), Holiday (a few months later than Bringing up Baby in 1938), and The Philadelphia Story (1941). I think I prefer Cary Grant and Katharine Hepburn to Spencer Tracy and Hepburn. But it is hard to say. Grant and Hepburn just play so well with each other. It looks like they are having a marvelous time.

And they sure get a chance to play in Bringing Up Baby. The movie is about a nerdy, round-black-spectacle-wearing paleontologist named Dr. David Huxley (Cary Grant). He perfects the absent-minded professor type—utterly engrossed in his complicated work putting together the huge fossil of a brontosaurus at his museum, but comically unaware and undependable when it comes to normal life. He is engaged to Miss Alice Swallow, a rather strict, humorless woman. She is sort of scary. David begins to tell a colleague that he and Miss Swallow will be going away on their honeymoon directly after they are married, but Miss Swallow breaks in and without a thought cancels their honeymoon, saying, “Oh no, David! We’re coming right back to the museum so you can finish your work!” David says, “But, gee whiz, Alice—” and she interrupts him with, “No slang, David! Remember who and what you are!” You know that this is not a match made in comedy heaven...Slang and fast talk are the hallmarks of screwball. (There is a great book called Fast Talking Dames by Maria DiBattista that Dr. Blackburn recommended to me in high school. It is all about the independent, verbally gifted heroines of 1930s comedies. Great book.)

Back to the movie: David meets Susan Vance (Katharine Hepburn), a very unique socialite, on the golf course. David is there to ask a Mr. Peabody for a million dollar donation to his museum. Susan is there playing golf. Their golf balls get confused and David tries to straighten out the mess. His attempt ends with Susan mistakenly driving away in David’s car while he hangs on to the running board, trying to prove that it is, indeed, his automobile. Their relationship continues in a blur of slapstick screwball.

I think their spectacular outfits make it funnier, especially in the scene at a fancy hotel bar, which is the second time that David and Susan meet. David looks awkwardly dapper in top hat and tails, though both items will be ruined by the end of the evening. Susan is wearing a wonderful concoction of wrapped and pleated gold lame with a funny gold trimmed veil that must have looked super in person but gets lost a little in the black and white against her dark hair. You get the feeling that despite the glamorous getup, Susan doesn’t really care about clothes. She just seems to throw on whatever is there. But it is always an excellent choice.

David keeps trying to get away from Susan but he doesn’t have much success. He slips on an olive that Susan was attempting to use in a magic trick, then Susan steals a woman’s purse (by accident) and gives it to David to hold. Of course, he gets in trouble. One of my favorite moments comes after Susan rips David’s tuxedo. David asks her if she wants to play a game. She eagerly says, “Yes, what game?” excited that he wants to do something with her. He puts his hand over his eyes and says, “I will count to ten. And when I open my eyes you will be gone!”

Rather than go into loving detail of every single funny moment and hilarious snippet of dialogue, I shall try to be brief. I could go on and on, as you probably are afraid I will. So...Susan calls David to offer him her leopard, since he is the only “zoologist” she knows. She explains that her brother Mark is hunting in Brazil and has sent her a leopard, (named Baby). David assumes it is a stuffed leopard, to which Susan impatiently replies, “Why would Mark be hunting stuffed leopards?” In that same conversation Susan reads David a letter from Mark which mentions that Baby “likes dogs.” Susan adds, “I don’t know if that means he eats dogs or is fond of them...Mark is so vague at times!”

Well, David refuses to take Baby, Susan pretends the leopard has attacked her, David rushes over to “save” her; she manipulates the situation so that David is suddenly driving with her and Baby to Connecticut where she has a country house. Like it or not, (and David does not), Susan and David are stuck together.

The plot eventually includes the disappearance of David’s prized dinosaur bone, (Susan’s Aunt Elizabeth’s dog George (the terrier from the Thin Man movies) took it and buried it somewhere), a psychiatrist who thinks Susan is insane, a million dollar inheritance/donation up for grabs, a bewildered big game hunter, a drunken Irish gardener, a clueless sheriff, and a make believe gang of big city crooks, led by Swingin’ Door Suzy (Susan with a rough New York accent over her Bryn Mawr drawl).

My absolutely favorite scene is when David and Susan are prowling about in the woods of Connecticut with a butterfly net searching for Baby and George. They fall down hills, get smacked in the face with branches, and attempt to wade across a really deep creek because Susan insists it is shallow (“the riverbeds changed!” she sputters as she comes up for air). This comes about 2/3 of the way into the movie, so if I had to find fault with the film, I would say that it peaks too early and dissolves a little. The rest of the movie deals with Susan and David getting thrown in jail, and though it is great and funny, it can’t compare to the earlier parts.

You just have to go with this movie. It is not logical because the characters are illogical. They don’t behave like sensible people and the movie gets deeper and deeper into their silliness. So if you fight the outrageous plot and characters then you will not enjoy the brilliance of the film.

This movie is a little different in that the male lead is the one who changes. David starts the movie as a stuffy, inarticulate, hopelessly disconnected scientist in heavy tweeds and thick glasses, and ends the film as a devilishly handsome hunk who knows what he wants and how to get it. Susan remains the wacky, outrageous woman who lives life in unique and sometimes counterintuitive ways. She isn’t “tamed” by David; indeed, it is David who is improved and opened up by Susan. In today’s romantic comedies, by contrast, it is the women who are “improved” by the men. The women are too serious and career-focused and have to learn how to have fun. It was the opposite in the 1930s.

More on Grant and Hepburn:

Maybe because she was so smart and independent, Katharine Hepburn plays a dizzy, silly, excited socialite better than almost anyone. (I think Carole Lombard is pretty terrific in those roles, too, but I need to focus.) It is fascinating and a little dizzying to watch Susan Vance’s brain work. She knows what she wants and she gets it, though the route is complicated and illogical and ridiculous—but very, very funny.

Many people think of Cary Grant as a superbly suave gentleman who perfected the role of the dashing romantic lead. Like a non-violent James Bond. But in his early years in Hollywood he did not always play the polished, debonair aristocrat. In fact, I like him best when he is being goofy. In comedies like Topper (1937), Bringing Up Baby (1938), Holiday (1938), and His Girl Friday (1939) he is more fun and less smooth perfection. After all, his real name was Archibald Leach (I’m not joking). He was born in England and trained as an acrobat. He left the UK when he was a teenager to travel to the US with an acrobatic troupe. (His athletic background makes his prat falls and physical comedy extra excellent.) He morphed into the Cary Grant we think of in later films. If you are interested in Grant, you might like to check out Father Goose (1964). I think he unifies the Archie Leach/screwball hero/impossibly smooth gentleman best in that movie. He plays a gruff drunkard who reluctantly spots Japanese planes for the US Navy in WWII. Really.

Fun Fact: Bringing up Baby includes the first use of the word gay to mean homosexual in Hollywood film. While David is showering, Susan steals his clothes so that he can’t leave. The only thing he can find to wear is a white negligee trimmed in feathers. The formidable Aunt Elizabeth arrives and asks him why he is wearing the filmy robe. At this point, David is about to lose it. He jumps up in the air and shouts, “Because I just went gay all of the sudden!”

Fun Fact: Bringing Up Baby was loosely remade as What’s Up, Doc? with Barbra Streisand in 1972 and Who’s That Girl? with Madonna in 1987.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Hrad Krivoklat

Before I left for the States* Eva and the older boys and I went to the nearby castle, Hrad Krivoklat. Hrad means castle. So the sentence before last was very redundant. It reminded me quite a lot of Karlstejn. And I found out that Krivoklat was Charles IV's childhood castle and then he built Karlstejn when he grew up. So that's why they are similar! Also, I want a "childhood castle."

*That's what I call it now. America sounds funny to say; "I'm going to America" makes me feel like I just stepped out of "West Side Story." The United States is too long for normal conversation especially with someone whose English is not super great, and the United States of America is way too long.
Here is the big tower. Karlstejn's big tower is square. I liked Krivoklat a lot. It was only 25 minutes away, so that was nice. It is not as popular with tourists (I'm not sure they offer tours in English, for example; Eva translated for me from Czech), so it was less of a circus atmosphere and more of a quiet castle. There were super cute candle/tea/ice cream shops and a falconry demonstration for the kids. Honzik just stared at the birds. The woman running the show was all dressed up in medieval falconer clothes and even had a feather in her hair. I was most fascinated/grossed out by the bit of bloody animal (rabbit?) she kept in a little leather pouch and drew out to rub her big leather glove so that the birds would fly to her. The boys loved it. Shock.
There were very interesting carvings at the castle. Very elaborate for a functional castle, I think. If I understood correctly, they call this balcony the "Venetian balcony." It is lacy and ornate and silly like Venice.
The Venetian balcony was in the first courtyard of the castle, along with this wooden passage adorned with totally creepy gargoyles.
This one kept eyeing me in a disturbing way. Stop looking at me, gargoyle!
They didn't allow cameras inside the castle. I get it, I get it, they want to make money off of postcard sales, but I still hate that rule.

Especially since, unlike Karlstejn, this castle had cool stuff inside. There was a whole room devoted to sleds and sleighs. And not flexible flyers. Some of them were small and looked like they were made for royal kiddos, but some of them were meant to carry dead animals on hunting trips. Regardless of their cargo, the sleighs were gorgeously carved and painted. Magnificent all lined up in that old room.

There was also a beautiful library. I'm a sucker for libraries. I could spend hours just looking at the Biltmore House library from behind the velvet rope divider. This library had lovely dark wooden shelves and globes and portraits of dead people (they weren't dead when they were painted, thank goodness), and obviously loads of dusty tomes, as the phrase goes.

There was another room with 18th and 19th and 20th century furnishings that was preserved from the way it looked when the last people lived at the castle in the 1920s. There was even a life size portrait of the daughter-in-law of the last owner. She was beautiful and sort of Great Gatsby-esque in a flowery flowy dropped waist dress and big broad hat. The guide called her the most beautiful woman to live at Krivoklat, and in the next room he pointed out the ugliest woman to ever live there. Not quite fair, since her portrait was taken when she was much older and in the 16th century...

We spent a great deal of time in the dungeons and starvation pits and jails of the castle. Either that is what the tourists come to see so the guides indulge them, or the castle had an extremely brutal history. Hard to tell. Gross and dark, though. I preferred the library. Again, shock.

There was a funny black wood carriage that was built for a king. He used it on one hunting excursion and killed 100 animals, apparently. The carriage had a swivel chair inside (ha!) so that the king had 360 degrees of visibility and could swing around to kill animals in every direction. The rim of the carriage walls (it was more of a wagon, I guess) was scalloped so that the king could place his gun anywhere around the rim and have a steady shot. If only they had put that much thought and ingenuity into plumbing or better lighting.

It is interesting to me how these castles (Karlstejn and Cesky Krumlov and Krivoklat) were in the royal family and then were sold or given to other aristocrats, and then when those aristocratic families died out or needed cash they sold them to other aristocrats or just "common" people with money. So each castle has a list of owners and lots of different crests and things. Eventually all the castles became property of the country. Unfortunately in the Czech Republic that meant that they were in the care of a Communist government and didn't get the care they needed. But now it seems that they are being preserved and "loved."

I am writing this in Starbucks at Zlicin, the outermost metro stop on my side of Prague. My internet at the house is not working, which sends me spiraling into despair. Slight exaggeration. But I do feel quite isolated when I can't email! Anyway, so I am at Starbucks and they are playing the classic Jeannette McDonald "Indian Love Call," more popularly known as "When I'm calling you!" from an old old movie, Rose Marie (1936). So funny to hear that in the Czech Republic. And now it is "Cheek to Cheek" with Fred Astaire. Love it.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

It's been 3 months...

So.
It's been three months...And?

I wish I could sum up these three months, wrap them up neatly and tie them with a ribbon, but I do not know what to say. So here are some not-quite-neatly-tied-in-a-bow thoughts.

I have stepped far from my comfort zone, which I suppose is good. It has been interesting to notice what remains when I shed all the identities and roles I am used to inhabiting. Suddenly I am here, where no one knows my family or my friends, or even my dogs! (I have a weird moment of bewildered surprise when people ask if I have brothers or sisters...I catch myself thinking, “Don’t they know? Can’t they tell?” and then remember that, no, they don’t know and they can’t tell. How would they? (Not that I am famous or anything, but being the middle of three girls has been so important that it is weird to be asked that question. I feel like that fact is tattooed on my forehead or something.) Most people don’t recognize North Carolina, and barely understand the “East Coast” or “south of New York” which is how I usually end up describing where I live. They don’t know Duke, so the last four years mean nothing to them.Most people have not read the books I have read or seen the movies I have seen just because they have their own literature and films. Never mind the language barrier. So it is difficult to tell anyone anything, and I don’t even attempt something complicated. So what am I left with?Eckhart Tolle (I've been listening to A New Earth when I ride the bus into Prague) would chide me and say “All of that is content, not essence.” Okay. So what is this essence and how do I bring it to the Czech Republic?

Every thing is an adventure, and that is terrifying and exciting. (Though currently I am rather tired of adventures.) Just catching the right bus or purchasing bread at a grocery store turn into major events. A lot of that, though, is due to my tragic (non)sense of direction. It can be exhilarating, yes, but sometimes I wish that a bus trip was just a bus trip, and buying bread was just a simple errand.

I realized recently that I take my camera with me almost everywhere, which is quite different from my attitude at home. I never know when something weird or beautiful or interesting will pop up and I don’t want to miss it. When was the last time you took a camera with you on the way to the grocery store? I didn’t have it with me one day this week when Eva and the baby and I went to get school supplies for the boys in the village. (At a store that sells school supplies, lunch boxes, wrapping paper, and toilet paper. Okay.) And boy did I see something weird. Above the Disney Princess notebooks, literally six inches away, was a nude calendar for sale featuring a topless and bottomless (unless you count sheer knee-highs) woman. Across the store was another risqué calendar sitting next to a stack of folders with ponies on them. What?

Cool moment: A few weeks ago I watched my mom and the baby play peekaboo over Skype video. She hid behind a napkin and he giggled and giggled in my lap. Peekaboo across the ocean...cool.

Hurray hurray! I am coming home! Just for a week to attend my cousin’s wedding. I have been counting down the days for about, oh, three months so I can hardly believe it is time! And these last few days have been the slowest ones yet. Funny how that works.*

*This was a post in progress, so although I began it before leaving the Czech Republic, I "published" it on my first full day back. It was marvelous to see my family (immediate and extended) and friends. The wedding was so much fun! Highlights include a breezy and delightful rehearsal dinner on a Minnesota lake, a wonderful ceremony, a trip to Starbucks in all our wedding finery before the reception, and a very celebratory evening at a beautiful location with lots of dancing! Congratulations to Dan and Allison!

Yay for cousins!

Sally, Mason, Oscar and Isabella. CUTE!

The week at home and in Minnesota was so nice that it made it very difficult to get on that plane to Prague...